ACCOMMODATIONS - $25 to $100

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BAMBOO SAPA
On Muong Hoa St, just down from the end of Cau May St, this three-wing, valley-side hotel has comfortable tiled rooms with shared balconies. Not exactly oozing with style, and I’d call the price tag about $10 high, but there are traditional music shows from 8.30pm to 10pm (free) and staff are nice. Skip the musty US$15 rooms in the chalet-style old wing.
Tel 020-871-075; [email protected]; Muong Hoa St; doubles including breakfast buffet $39

CHAU LONG
Off an alley near the end of Cau May St, this big two-wing hotel is a bit overpriced and a tad stuffy. If you stay, opt for the $70 new-wing rooms. You get the same Mt Fansipan views from your private balcony as the US$90 rooms, but you’ll just have to live without a mini bar or blood-red bedspreads.
Tel 020-871-245; www.chaulonghotel.com; 24 Dong Loi St, an alley off Cau May St; rooms US$70-90