ACCOMMODATIONS - Under $25

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CAT CAT
This growing three-part hotel climbs a hill on the road down to, yep, Cat Cat village. It’s just slightly outside the center, but has great views and less pushy staff than Mountain View. Best is the newest wing, up the steep hill (a lift is supposedly in the works), with fine, wood-floor rooms, TVs and knock-out views down the valley. Some rooms have fireplaces.
Tel 020-871-387; [email protected]; Cat Cat Rd; rooms in new wing US$15-20, old wing US$10

MOUNTAIN VIEW
Ever-popular Mountain View has a mix of rooms with super views that are great value for the price. The most-expensive $15 rooms – with TV and dark-wood interiors – justifies the extra few bucks for its balcony directly facing Fansipan. Staff can be a bit glassy-eyed or indifferent – particularly if you don’t take them up on their treks – perhaps due to the steady influx of guidebook-toting visitors clamoring for views. Ask for free breakfast and you’re likely to get it; Internet’s free for 15 minute daily.
Tel 020-871-334; [email protected]; 54A Cau May St; rooms US$8, US$12 & US$15

DUC MINH HOTEL
Across from Mountain View, this seven-room, old-fashioned budget hotel has basic rooms that are homey in their own way (perhaps it’s the burgundy tile and pink walls?). Not much in terms of views, but there are small balconies, and their tours are run by local guides.
Tel 020-871-881,  0913-026-004; 3 Cau May St; rooms US$9.40

HA GIANG
Parallel to Cau May St to the east is an elevated alley lined with food stalls and family-run cheapie hotels that cater to domestic tourists. This is one, with perfectly fine eight rooms and no view. Staff were English-free when I dropped by.
Tel 020-871-110; 12 Pham Xuan Huan St; rooms US$6.50