ACCOMMODATIONS - $25 to $100

Long Beach

TROPICANA
Probably the best of the mid-range offers, the Tropicana puts a lot of effort in keeping up its lush gardens surrounding 28 bungalows and six rooms, all with porches. Fan-cooled rooms are side by side, air-con bungalows stand alone. There’s a pool, beach volleyball, several bamboo umbrellas on the beach, and a wider beach than many of the Long Beach offers. Unfortunately staff can be a little indifferent (preferring gossip sessions or playing pool to their jobs on occasion) and the restaurant – up above the beach – doesn’t really take in the water unless you sit without shade. But you can walk to eat at nearby Rainbow or Palm Tree if you want a change.
Tel 0773-847-127; www.tropicanavietnam.com; fan rooms from $15, air-conditioned bungalows from $25, more on the beach
Book Tropicana online

SAO BIEN (SEA STAR) RESORT
Next to the Tropicana, this leafy spot has a dozen thatch-roof, mustard-colored bungalows on the water, and 11 more behind. All rather modern inside – white walls, white tile floors, a blaring AC. It’s a bit overpriced, but friendly, clean and each bungalow has porches. The shady restaurant is appealing, and there’s Internet (when Phu Quoc’s access is cooperating).
Tel 0773-982-161, 0918-123-881; www.seastarresort.com; seaside bungalows $38, garden bungalows $28

CASSIA COTTAGE
Though I didn’t personally visit this Kiwi-run, 18-room bungalow midranger, a couple plots south of the Tropicanna, but I’m including it after hearing much praise from a midrange crowd who go. The room, tile-job rooms are connected by a shady path to the nearby beach, and there’s a pool.
Tel 077-384-8295, 0934-00409; www.cassiacottage.com; rooms from $75

North Phu Quoc

BO RESORT
Close to perfect, set on the south end of the undeveloped (as of yet) Cua Can beach, the Bo has 11 bungalows strewn atop a hill overlooking the water – each reached by flower-lined paths in an appealingly wild garden. The restaurant serves good food by the lawn facing the water, where hammocks sway in the sea breeze. Marie runs the place, a Vietnamese-French woman who speaks French and English, who came into Phu Quoc a decade ago, way ahead of the curve. The fan-cooled bungalows are basic, but nicely kept up – with blue-and-gold shutters, mosquito nets, plank-board floors, intricately thatched roofs and a porch to take in the bird chirps. Waterfront bungalows cost more. There’s murmurs of a golf course off the nearby beach, so go soon – it’s practically a private beach for the moment. This is where I’ll stay the next time I’m back.
Tel 0773-986-142, 0913-640-520; www.boresort.com; bungalows $30 to $45

MANGO BAY RESORT
Set along a mostly rocky kilometer-long patch of beach with sandy patches nearby, the Mango Bay offers style with their bungalows. Best are the ‘rammed earth’ bungalows ($50) with a thatch roof looming over a speckled concrete floor, poster bed with mosquito net, and the tall clay-made, adobe-style walls that keep the room cool. The bathrooms are half outside, with a bamboo-fence ‘garden’ surrounding the open shower. ‘Verandah’ rooms are cheaper ($25) but a bit darker inside. All rooms are fan-cooled. There are hammocks on the shared porch. Staff rent motorbikes, and have free snorkel equipment to use.
Tel 0903-382-207, in Saigon 08-914-3345; www.mangobayphuquoc.com; bungalows $25-50
Book Mango Bay online

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