ACCOMMODATIONS - Long Beach

Most guesthouses and resorts cluster on Long Beach, stretching a few miles south of Duong Dong town on the island’s western side.

Over $100

LA VERANDA
If you have the bucks, this is by far Phu Quoc’s classiest resort. Opened in August 2006, this 43-room, French colonial style resort is several notches above the rest for fresh luxury comfort – it’s already where expats in Saigon bee-line for beach breaks. Gardens line paths by villas, a nice L-shaped pool, leading to the rather small beachfront. If you opt for the ‘seaview superior’ over the similar superior – and do apt; it’s only $20 more – you get shuttered balconies overlooking the water, vaulted ceilings and a DVD player. All rooms are nicely tiled, with AC and free WiFi throughout. The restaurant is on the second-floor of a great open-air villa next to the pool; the ground-floor bar has Eames-style chairs looking out towards the water. The only catch is a lack of beach shade some resorts have, a rather small beach that’s shoulder-to-shoulder with a cheapie family restaurant in a bamboo shack (nice alternative) and Eden bar, with DJs and themed party nights. Watch for off-season special packages from Saigon.
Tel 0773-982-988; www.laverandaresort.com; superior doubles $135 & $155, villas $195

SAIGON–PHU QUOC RESORT
At Saigontourist’s Phu Quoc resort, just out of Duong Dong town, there’s a package-tourist blur at this pleasant 90-room choice, but the leafy gardens, tennis court, pool, driving range and pleasant, if ho-hum for the price, rooms make it an OK back-up to La Veranda. There’s free Internet in the lobby and a host of tours on offer. Rooms have creamy walls and plain tile floors, gold ruffily bedspreads, a nautical clock on the wall, chunky old radios – ie, maybe time for a refresher. But the lounge chairs on the balconies in the $132 ‘star cruise rooms’ face the water in all rooms. The beach café has glass tables under palms on a lawn by the water, and there’s a nice thatch restaurant by the pool. The kind of place that doesn’t get in the way, but not what you’ll be talking about after the trip.
Tel 0773-846-999; www.vietnamphuquoc.com; doubles from $99

$25 to $99

TROPICANA
Probably the best of the mid-range offers, the Tropicana puts a lot of effort in keeping up its lush gardens surrounding 28 bungalows and six rooms, all with porches. Fan-cooled rooms are side by side, air-con bungalows stand alone. There’s a pool, beach volleyball, several bamboo umbrellas on the beach, and a wider beach than many of the Long Beach choices. Unfortunately staff can be a little indifferent (preferring gossip sessions or playing pool to their jobs on occasion) and the restaurant – up above the beach – doesn’t really take in the water unless you sit without shade. But you can walk to eat at nearby Rainbow or Palm Tree if you want a change.
Tel 0773-847-127; www.tropicanavietnam.com; fan rooms from $15, air-conditioned bungalows from $25, more on the beach
Book Tropicana online

SAO BIEN (SEA STAR) RESORT
Next to the Tropicana, this leafy spot has a dozen thatch-roof, mustard-colored bungalows on the water, and 11 more behind. All rather modern inside – white walls, white tile floors, a blaring AC. It’s a bit overpriced, but friendly, clean and each bungalow has porches. The shady restaurant is appealing, and there’s Internet (when Phu Quoc’s access is cooperating).
Tel 0773-982-161, 0918-123-881; www.seastarresort.com; seaside bungalows $38, garden bungalows $28

CASSIA COTTAGE
Though I didn’t personally visit this Kiwi-run, 18-room bungalow midranger, a couple plots south of the Tropicanna, but I’m including it after hearing much praise from a midrange crowd who go. The room, tile-job rooms are connected by a shady path to the nearby beach, and there’s a pool.
Tel 0773-384-8295, 0934-00409; www.cassiacottage.com; rooms from $75

Under $25

BEACH CLUB
Near the southern end of development on Long Beach, the four-bungalow and five-room Beach Club is a nice spot that feels a bit removed from the rest – which can be a good thing, but makes a walk to a neighboring restaurant a bit longer. Fan-cooled rooms with terra-cotta tile rooms. Staff are nice, the palms on the beach are a bit sparse. It’s about a 15-minute walk north to Eden or Palm Tree restaurant (see Restaurants).
Tel 0773-980-998, 0918-484-951; www.beachclubvietnam.com; rooms $15, bungalows $20

LIEN HIEP THANH
Looking out at the same beach of the high-end Veranda (it’s two lots down) for a lot less, the family-run, new-in-2006, resort has 16 bungalows with porches and Thai Air posters on pink walls in the simple rooms. All are fan-cooled. Not much English spoken.
Tel 0773-847-583; bungalows by sea $20-25, by garden $15

VIET THANH
If a bunk on the beach is all you need, Viet Thanh’s complex is a fine place. It’s a couple lots down from Eden’s DJ nights and Veranda’s classy $100+ rooms and WiFi bar. Run by a family, speaking little or no English, the fan-cooled bungalows face a shady garden.
Tel 0773-847-716; bungalows $7 to $9

No!
The following places seemed like misfires to me – going for something overly resorty, with boxy rooms, lack of shade, too much tack. Often they’re geared for Vietnamese or overseas Vietnamese tourists, and lack that laid-back, ‘beach’ feel most travelers look for. It’s possible you may enjoy them, but I preferred the other choices.

Blue Lagoon – resort hotel with bungalows, not much shade
Kim Hoa Resort – peachy colored complex, with hotel-style rooms and concrete bungalows.
Ngan Sao (Thousand Stars) – Statues of dragons and Vietnamese figures cater toward Vietnamese market; there’s a nice pool, but the 45 rooms ($18 to $52) are overpriced for what you get
Thien Hai Son Resort – concrete roads lead to bungalows, tennis and swimming pool

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