ACCOMMODATIONS - Over $100

Long Beach

LA VERANDA
If you have the bucks, this is by far Phu Quoc’s classiest resort. Opened in August 2006, this 43-room, French colonial style resort is several notches above the rest for fresh luxury comfort – it’s already where expats in Saigon bee-line for beach breaks. Gardens line paths by villas, a nice L-shaped pool, leading to the rather small beachfront. If you opt for the ‘seaview superior’ over the similar superior – and do apt; it’s only $20 more – you get shuttered balconies overlooking the water, vaulted ceilings and a DVD player. All rooms are nicely tiled, with AC and free WiFi throughout. The restaurant is on the second-floor of a great open-air villa next to the pool; the ground-floor bar has Eames-style chairs looking out towards the water. The only catch is a lack of beach shade some resorts have, a rather small beach that’s shoulder-to-shoulder with a cheapie family restaurant in a bamboo shack (nice alternative) and Eden bar, with DJs and themed party nights. Watch for off-season special packages from Saigon.
Tel 0773-982-988; www.laverandaresort.com; superior doubles $135 & $155, villas $195

SAIGON–PHU QUOC RESORT
At Saigontourist’s Phu Quoc resort, just out of Duong Dong town, there’s a package-tourist blur at this pleasant 90-room choice,but the leafy gardens, tennis court, pool, driving range and pleasant, if ho-hum for the price, rooms make it an OK back-up to La Veranda. There’s free Internet in the lobby and a host of tours on offer. Rooms have creamy walls and plain tile floors, gold ruffily bedspreads, a nautical clock on the wall, chunky old radios – ie, maybe time for a refresher. But the lounge chairs on the balconies in the $132 ‘star cruise rooms’ face the water in all rooms. The beach café has glass tables under palms on a lawn by the water, and there’s a nice thatch restaurant by the pool. The kind of place that doesn’t get in the way, but not what you’ll be talking about after the trip.
Tel 0773-846-999; www.vietnamphuquoc.com; doubles from $99

North Phu Quoc

PHONG LAN (WILD ORCHID) GUESTHOUSE
For total isolation and total style, the six-room Wild Orchid is a private paradise, with a square-pavillion style building with corner rooms and a giant wrap-around porch. One room is by the pool, all surrounded by a young garden with views of northern mountains and the private beach below. It’s the only offer on the beach north of a nature preserve at Ganh Dau village. The water here has some sea grass, but couldn’t be more turquoise. Rooms have glass doors and lots of light, plus details like framed 1904 maps of the island on the walls. Coming in means planning ahead – if you’re wanting to take boat trips or rent motorbikes: taxis, motorcycle guys and fellow guesthouses often don’t even know this is here! Also reserve ahead so that Ms Minh, who cooks the meals here, can stock up on food. Staff can arrange boat trips and arrange a driver or motorbike or cooking squid on the beach.
Tel 0903-717-270; www.freewebs.com/phonglanresort/; [email protected]; rates for one/two/six rooms $170/220/400

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